Refuel opened in early December 2009, and like Gastropod’s Maenam and Parkside’s L’Altro Buca, it’s the reincarnated version of Fuel. In its original form it was a modern fine dining restaurant with an open kitchen, white tablecloths, fine tableware and attentive service. The open kitchen is still there but the cooks’ uniforms are now jeans and black t-shirts with an outline of a pig and its primal cuts – an homage to the ingredient that Refuel does best. The white tablecloths and fine tableware are gone, but the service is still as attentive and friendly as ever. Both the front and back of house staff are the same as before, just attired differently. The main dining room has undergone a cosmetic makeover, with lighter wood panels on the sides and a large chalkboard for the back. The back wall is also decorated with lit panels of macro shots of seasonal ingredients, which will be rotated throughout the year. I’m glad they kept the original main dining room lighting fixture though, a wiry elegant tangle of metal and pinpoint lights.

Co-owners Robert Belcham and Tom Doughty have been longtime supporters of regional farms and ingredients. Polderside Farms supplies the restaurant with duck and chicken, which are used in two of the restaurant’s signature dishes: deep fried confited duck for two, and fried chicken. Sloping Hills Farm raises the pigs that are used at Refuel, Campagnolo and The Cure (Refuel’s hand-crafted charcuterie line) in numerous delicious dishes and preparations. Other local ingredients used frequently are Chilliwack corn, BC spot prawns, and Agassiz hazelnuts.

Refuel’s famous fried chicken was first introduced in 2008 as a Friday afternoon special and became a runaway hit. The lengthy preparation process speaks to the care and attention that they put into making the most of quality ingredients. Chicken pieces are marinated in seasoned buttermilk over several days, vacuum-sealed and par-cooked sous vide in a water bath, and then double coated before the final frying. Sides are a buttery jalapeno biscuit, crisp coleslaw, and dark chicken gravy. It’s easily a contender for the best fried chicken in the city.

Their dry-aged beef burger is another stand out dish. It’s made with hand chopped beef that has been dry aged, then topped with bacon and cheddar and served on a soft bun. When cooked to medium rare, it literally oozes beefy goodness. With the hot crispy fries on the side, it’s a great meal to dig into on a cold rainy Vancouver day.

I’d never seen devilled eggs on a menu before but it makes sense here. They’re different from the kind that are encountered at most potlucks, filled with a smooth and very mustardy mixture that will wake you up. Other fun items on the snacks/sides list are the piggy puffs, deep fried pork rinds served with a spicy vinegar on the side; and croquettes, two breaded and deep fried pieces of “fatty duck liver” that ooze in your mouth and must be eaten whole.

There are some noteworthy off-menu specials available as well; the aforementioned deep fried confited duck for two, and rib eye steak for two. I had the chance to try the duck last summer at Fuel and a great dish was made more memorable by sitting in front of the open kitchen. While the whole duck was being deep fried (and this is after it has been confited it is own fat!), the kitchen staff prepared seasonal accompaniments to pair with it. Sitting at the kitchen is a great way to learn more about the ingredients and how they are currently being prepared, and the staff in turn get a sense of what the customers might find enjoyable. I will definitely be trying it again to see if they make any changes for the Refuel version.

Other dishes I’m eager to try are the spaghetti carbonara, Sloping Hill pork, and The Cure’s bacon & egg sandwich at weekend brunch. One thing I’ve learned is that this group does pork really well and I look forward to seeing how Refuel continues in that direction.

Refuel is at 1944 West 4th Avenue
604.288.7905
11:30 until midnight 7 days a week
Brunch on Saturdays & Sundays from 11:30 until 3:00pm

I didn’t think much of organic food when I first heard about it, thinking it was just for treehuggers or my sandal-lovin pals in Saanich. I was mistaken. It’s what REAL food should taste like but doesn’t when it comes out of a microwave pouch from Mr. Chef-Boy-Ah-Gotta-Barf. My new favorite spot for delicious organic fare is Aphrodite’s Café on West 4th off Dunbar. We found it by accident after going to Forerunners too early and deciding to kill time with some pie, my favorite food group. (Aphrodite’s Pies is where they spun off from, just next door. Also organic ingredients, a bit on the sweet side.) Both times that I’ve enjoyed Sunday brunch have been flavorfully orgasmic, like I’m eating freshly picked from the farm. They have a generously large menu with additional seasonal specials from an organic farm where unique combinations are born (including elk, chorizo, italian herb, or butter chicken sausage). Their multigrain toast is made from fresh bread baked in the back, home fries are perfectly cooked and seasoned, fresh fruit waffles are very popular and their salads are chock full of seeds, carrots, cucumber and numerous greens on a tasty dressing. We used to hit Sophie’s for brunch, but I think we’d prefer to venture further west for something mighty healthy and delish.

ps. The ketchup is also organic. A café after my own heart. Snif!

Aphrodite’s Café is located 3598 W 4th Avenue. Vancouver, BC in Kitsilano; (604) 738-5879, www.organiccafe.ca

Located on 4th Avenue just beside Maple, Gastropod is certainly a trendy affair. With stark white walls and European-looking wood furnishings, the room would not be out of place in Wallpaper magazine. The staff were all dressed in matching, custom-designed uniforms, and looked like they might have walked out of a 1960′s airline commercial. All around, I found the room a bit too bright, and a bit too sterile. Brightly lit does not always equate to well lit.

Let’s talk about the food. I’ll admit now that nothing I ordered came in a shell. Indeed, thinking back, I can’t remember if there was even an escargot to be had on the menu – but it may have been something that I simply over-looked. I ordered the fennel risotto and a nori-wrapped salmon dish.

The risotto was, quite simply, divine. The texture was rich without being too heavy, the fennel flavour was full and delicious, while shaved daikon added a crunch to an otherwise soft texture. One trick I have tried in the past with risotto is to fold in some whipped cream right before serving. I suspect this might be the secret to this altogether exceptional dish.

The risotto proved a tough act to follow. Though the salmon – wrapped in nori and fried tempura style – was very good, it didn’t stand up against the starter. I suppose we can hardly blame the chef for making his smaller plates too darned good. Everyone at our table seemed to enjoy their meals, and I’d certainly like to try some more of the menu offerings.

The wine list seemed thorough, the staff were friendly, and the food was very good. Now if only they’d turn down the lights…

Gastropod is located at 1938 W. 4th Avenue in Vancouver, BC, 604-730-5579. http://www.gastropod.ca

UPDATE: Gastropod has since closed.