The Lemon Meringue Tart From Hell

Lemon tart

This is not the Lemon Meringue Tart from Hell. This is what the lemon tart was supposed to look like. Mine (the one from Hell) did not look like this.

French lemon tart is, naturally, more complicated than your average lemon tart. It’s a four-component dessert: sweet dough, almond cream, lemon custard, Italian meringue. It happened to be the focus of the fourth lesson in culinary school, and my first opportunity to show that I could the pieces together to make something lovely.

Well, as you might have guessed, it was anything but lovely.

Sweet dough

Oh, sweet dough. There’s something lovely and methodical about making pastry. There’s something about the need for cold hands, the reverence for butter, and being gentle so as to get a tender dough. I think it’s therapeutic; others think it’s terrifying. In any case, this part of the class went fine. I had visions of the beautiful pastry shop that I would open. People would come from miles to visit, and lie prostrate at my feet when they tasted my creations.

Almond cream

Sometimes called frangipane cream, almond cream is a fluffy, butter-based almond filling. It’s sort of airy and melty and is really delicious with pears and apples. The lemon tart called for a delicate spiral of almond cream to be piped on top of the sweet dough, and the two layers baked until they were golden brown.

Piping? Erm, okay. Despite my hours of practice at home (covering the kitchen table with tinfoil and piping rosettes out of cheap margarine does not make you popular with roommates) I was still pretty sketchy with a piping bag. The spiral, if it had a face, would have had a face that only its mother could love. No matter, I thought. There will be a layer of lemon custard to cover this up, and I’m sure that it everything will taste great.

The sweet dough and almond cream went into the oven, and I turned my attention to the lemon custard.

Lemon custard

I love lemon custard. If it’s lemony with a pudding-like consistency, I’m all over it.

I made my lemon custard and it turned out well. I checked on the oven, only to find that my already sad-looking tart had turned into a volcanic pimple. Suddenly, Chef’s voice sounded in my head: “If you do not fill ze pan wit ze pastry prop-air-ly, you will ‘ave hair underzneeth it and it will expand.” Shoot. I took it out, pressed it down with a large spatula, and popped it back in. Whew.

When the now-deflated tart was done, I took it out and put it in the freezer to cool it down. I was running out of time, and I still had to make Italian meringue.

Italian meringue

Italian meringue is a mixture of egg whites and sugar syrup. To make Italian meringue, whisk egg whites to a soft peak. A little bit of cream of tartar will help keep the egg whites from separating. Meanwhile, prepare a mixture of sugar and water and heat it until it’s 120°C. Then, stream the sugar syrup into the egg whites and whisk until they’re shiny, glossy and hold their shape.

It all sounds so simple, except that we weren’t allowed to use any machines. Suddenly, this very simple procedure is the world’s best workout. And how to figure out that the sugar syrup was at the correct temperature? Oh, that’s simple. You put your fingers in a bowl of ice water, pop them into the bubbling sugar mixture to get a little bit, and then put your fingers back in the ice water. Uh huh.

A few burnt fingers later, red-faced and exhausted, my Italian meringue was as lame as I felt. It was gloopy, gloppy, and it certainly did not hold its shape. However, I didn’t have the time or the strength to start again, so I went with it. My visions of the cute pastry shop were rapidly fading.

Assembly…and where it goes horribly wrong

I took the almond cream base out of the freezer, but it clearly hadn’t been in there long enough. It was still slightly warm, but I didn’t have time to wait. I filled it with lemon cream and felt a wave of horror swept over me. “If ze cream is too ‘ot, you will melt ze lemon custard,” I heard in the back of my head. Yup. Ze lemon custard was turning to liquid at the edges where it met the still-warm tart shell. I put it back in the freezer for a harrowing five minutes, and pulled it back out. It looked okay. I pushed ahead.

I was supposed to pipe the Italian meringue on top of the lemon custard, creating a pattern of delicate petals. One look at my gloopy, gloppy meringue and I knew that wasn’t going to happen. I spread it onto the custard and tried to make it look pretty. It did not look pretty.

Finally, I put it back in the oven to caramelize the meringue. Suddenly, I heard another tidbit in my brain: “If you do not cover ze custard wiz ze meringue compl-ait-lay, ze ‘eat of ze oven will melt it. And you will FAIL.”

I watched in horror as the lemon custard began to bubble out the top of the tart, threatening to escape the meringue and tarnish my academic record. I pulled the tart out of the oven in a panic. Just then, Chef walked by. “Chef, what do I do?” I wailed. He shrugged and said “Ah, you are done. Iz nussing you can do.”


I unmolded my sad, lame, un-caramelized tart and presented it to Chef. He looked at me, confused. “Why you present zis? Zis is not fin-aished.” I sputtered something about him telling me that it was done, and he shook his head. “You cannot serve zis. Zis is not cooked. You use ze torch.”

He handed me a blowtorch and proceeded to grade someone else’s pristine, gorgeous, artfully presented tart. In the time it took him to do that, I lit my meringue on fire.

He passed me, but only barely and only because he felt so badly for me.

Adding insult to injury

I packed up my things and put my sad, burnt tart into a Tupperware container. I was the last one out of the classroom and trudged down every single step to the basement locker room.

On the last step, I tripped. And, just like in the movies, my life went into slow motion as the Tupperware container slipped from my hands and tumbled ever-so-slowly to the ground. There was a distinct ka-chunk as the container hit the floor, and then a softer, squishier psshhhhhhh as the momentum of the fall propelled the tart into one corner of the container.

I stopped. I stared. And, just before I burst into tears, two raucous friends from the cuisine program came running down the stairs. I told them my story, presented them with the tart and then sat with them in the student lounge as we dug into the decrepit tart with plastic spoons.

It tasted just fine.


6 Responses to “The Lemon Meringue Tart From Hell”

  1. Posted on February 10th, 2010

    I shall never ask you to make me a French lemon tart! But having been on the receiving end of your pastries, frangipane and all sorts of other goodies, I have been tempted to lay prostate at your feet on more than one occassion.

    Your tarts? More than just fine ;)

  2. Posted on February 12th, 2010

    that is an awesome story. :)

  3. Posted on February 18th, 2010

    Very funny story; thanks for sharing!

  4. Posted on March 4th, 2010

    I would say you did quite well considering what you were up against. I know the difficulty level of this recipe and for a first go, even though it might not have been pretty at least it came together in some sort of manifestation and still tasted good. I did a Baked Alaska once and didn’t realize I used salt instead of sugar…well I found out when I went to hit it with the blow torch right before service and it went black instead of a shiny caramelized brown. That blew everyone’s mind that day, and my first hard lesson in always tasting the dish along the way. Chef was the only one not laughing…we served apple pie a la mode instead :)

  5. Posted on March 10th, 2010

    Dear Eagranie,

    My first encounter with Lemon Meringue Pie was one cooked by my Auntie Dolly in 1952 in UK. After 8 long years of rationing after the war we had hardly encountered rhubarb and custard at home…my mother continued the rationing for years longer than everyone else, being the frugal minded harridon in the kitchen type.
    Despite my aunties ‘tank trap’ pastry the whole experience was a delight and even as a child I made this desert every week for years…everyone came to our house to demolish it. Of course it improved immensly over the years and even when packet mixes arrived and everyone was making them, mine were always favourite. Now you have given me the reason they were in my mind, not quite perfect…the Almond cream…wow..I am now on a mission…getting ready for full house again on pie night! We were very unfortunate during the war whereby the ‘Make do and mend’ philosophy stuck for years…people made terrible adaptions to recipes purely because ‘everything’ was unnavailable for all those years. Almond cream would have been impossible then.
    Thank you for a real ‘purist’ recipe and experience.
    My first attempt to take a pie to work for my colleagues when I was 16 also ended in disaster….I was standing in the bus and quickly grabbed a seat that became available…at the same time as a very large gentleman who sat on top of me and the pie…ooops!


  6. Posted on May 25th, 2010


    Awwwww…That was quite an experience….
    must be yummy to eat though.
    Loved surprising my friends with these :) Lemon Cake, Lemon Tarts ~ Happy Anniversary Shikha & Sujith n Surprise for Sharad

    The Variable, Crazy Over Desserts – Nachiketa
    Catch me on facebook @ Crazy Over Desserts

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